Taming culrs3/24/2023 ![]() Today many women find it easy to manage their hair through identifying their specific curly hair type – an idea popularised by Ouidad in the 1980s, when she started to classify hair in her curl-specialist salon as Loose, Classic, Tight and Kinky. Ouidad (the name of the salon and founder, FYI) began creating products specifically formulated for curly hair with an emphasis on caring for curls rather than straightening or chemically altering the hair structure. Nevertheless, the look became popular with celebrities including Eriq La Salle and Lionel Richie.” 1984 – Ouidad Salon Opens It also gained notoriety for being incredibly greasy and staining pretty much anything the hair touched. HH: “The Jheri curl was advertised as a low-maintenance wash and wear style for Afro hair, which was allegedly safer and easier to take care of than a chemical relaxer. It was a lengthy treatment and expensive to upkeep, not to mention damaging to the hair. Invented by white chemist and hairdresser Robert ‘Jheri’ Redding (co-founder of Redken), the eponymous Jheri Curl was a permanent waved hairstyle hugely popular with African Americans during the 1970s and 1980s. It was the era of cheap and safe home styling tools and mega salons like TONI&GUY, who brought high fashion looks to the high street.” The 1980s Jheri Curl HH: “From big disco curls to long hippie lengths, many of the most significant beauty trends from the 1970s were about a rejection of what had gone before where parents had been neat 1950s preps, the following generation wanted to rebel with styles that reflected a changing society and diverse cultural trends. Many African Americans chose to grow their hair longer and wear it naturally, signifying pride in their heritage and protesting racial discrimination and ‘established’ standards of beauty.” 1970s D.I.S.C.froĭonna Summer and Diana Ross inspired a generation to wear their hair big and brushed-out. HH: “For centuries, people with Afro hair were persecuted in America and Europe for their appearance, so the arrival of the Civil Rights movement in the 1960s, and the accompanying ‘black is beautiful’ mantra, was a defiant moment. Roller-setting hair became a weekly occurrence for many women, creating the base for bouffant styles and curled looks.” 1960s Civil Rights Natural Hair Movementīlack women who had previously straightened their hair were influenced by the Civil Rights Movement and jazz musicians such as Nina Simone to leave their hair in its natural form. In 1959, Sicilian inventor Julian Rizzuto created a fast-drying bristle brush roller which gained popularity worldwide – and that company would go on to become Conair. HH: “Although heated hair tools had been around almost since time began, hot rollers as we know them became popular in the 1950s. They set the trend for women using curling aids such as hot rollers, heated bristle brushes and copious amounts of hairspray. Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Dorothy Dandrige… an array of girls with curls (natural or otherwise) starred in the lead roles of Hollywood movies. Veronica was forced to appear in an advert advising women to wear their hair in an updo, as a safer, but still A-list approved, look.” 1950s Hollywood Curls Veronica’s style was emulated by women across America – until World War II struck, and the US war department declared the hairstyle too dangerous to be worn for work in factories. The photographer was captivated, and it fast became her signature style, earning the actress the nickname of the ‘peek-a-boo girl’. HH: “During a publicity shoot, a strand of Veronica’s hair kept falling across her right eye. Long and beautifully glossy, everyone wanted the waves of Film Noir actress Veronica Lake. And Denman is still innovating – the brand has recently launched its D4 Original Styler 9 Row – Kyoto Cherry Blossom which shapes, defines curls, detangle and smooths the hair. In 1938, driven by a desire to help his sister style her beautiful curly yet unruly hair, John Denman Dean created a revolutionary styling brush, now known as The D3. Her trademark spit curls on each cheek added a cartoonish femininity to her cropped hair and provided detail in an era when hats were de rigeur.” 1938 – Denman is born Women that did dare to go short were regarded as bold, rebellious and independent – just like actress and dancer Josephine Baker. The Hair Historian: “Short hair was a controversial choice in the 1920s as it was seen as unfeminine. Whether you were rocking a Marcel Wave or sporting an Eton Crop – it was all about a perfectly slick curl. ![]() In the 1920s women’s hairstyles were short, sharp and styled. To celebrate every kink, coil, wave we’ve put together a potted 100-year history of curly hair, with a little expert help from The Hair Historian Rachael Gibson. ![]() Throughout history, curls have been coiffed, relaxed, slathered in chemicals and now with the rise of the natural hair movement, thankfully embraced.
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